In his third collection for Hermes, the house of the jet-setting fashion buyer, Christophe Lemaire flew business-class to Argentina. His first piece introduced gentle, hanging silhouettes: a long fringed cape in dark blue was worn like a South American poncho.
Wide, low-slung pleated gaucho pants mixed with sumptuous nude leathers — the house’s signature material — that were so soft, they moved as if they were living and breathing.
True enough: as the models walked past there was a distinct aroma of polished hide.
There were nods to the season’s must-have, the boxy-jacket, with one charcoal number reworked on a high white collar, in the style of Spanish equestrian garb.
But Hermes, in typical style, was all about comfort.
The relaxed look was perfected with subtle contrasting pieces: a coat was so cool it hung from one shoulder, yet also had the fierceness of a matador’s cape.